Sumela Monastery and The Frescoes
Sumela Monastery, located on the slopes of the Karadag Mountains in the Altindere Valley of the Macka district in Trabzon province, is a rock-carved Greek Orthodox monastery complex situated 1150 meters above sea level. Sumela was not built as a single monastery at once but evolved into a large monastery complex with additional sections added over time as needed. The sanctuary, also known as the Monastery of the Virgin Mary, follows the tradition of being established outside the city, in forests, caves, and by water sources. Apart from its entrance gate, the monastery is nestled among evergreen pine trees, creating a mysterious and captivating grandeur.
It is suggested that the Greek name "Sumela" may have derived from the word "Melas," meaning "black" or "dark." While some believe the term refers to the dark-colored Karadag Mountain, where the monastery was founded, others associate it with the black depiction of the Virgin Mary in the area. The Karadag Mountain, on which the monastery is built, is composed of dark-colored basalt and andesite rocks so the name may have originated from its geographical features.
Although there are various opinions regarding the construction date of Sumela Monastery, the surviving structures are known to belong to the 13th and 14th centuries during the Trabzon Empire period.
Even after Trabzon and its surrounding areas fell into Turkish hands, Sumela Monastery maintained its significance. The Ottoman sultans carefully preserved the monastery's rights and privileges, granting privileges and sending gifts, as they did with many other monasteries. It is known that Fatih Sultan Mehmed acknowledged the rights of the monastery and protected them through a decree, Yavuz Sultan Selim gifted two candelabras to the sanctuary, and II. Selim, III. Murad, Ibrahim, IV. Mehmed, II. Süleyman, and III. Ahmed issued decrees related to the monastery. Sultan III. Ahmed and I. Mahmud ordered the restoration of the monastery's interior walls and the renewal of frescoes, covering the expenses. In the 19th century, adding large buildings enhanced the monastery's magnificent appearance, marking its most affluent and prosperous period. The number of priests reached one hundred during this time, and with the generosity of Sultan Abdulhamid, the monastery's land was expanded to encompass fifteen surrounding villages.
The monastery was seized during the Russian occupation of Trabzon between 1916 and 1918. Following the population exchange after the War of Independence, the monastery was abandoned entirely with the migration of Greeks living in the region to Greece. Subsequently, it fell into disrepair due to neglect, was burned in 1930, suffered significant damage, and its masonry parts collapsed. Many of the frescoes were removed and stolen. In 1972, the Ministry of Culture declared it a protected site; in 1981, it was designated as a natural conservation area. In 1987, with the declaration of the Altindere Valley as a national park, the monastery received better protection. The monastery complex consists of the main rock-carved church, several chapels, a kitchen, student rooms, a guesthouse, a library, and a holy spring.
Additionally, at the monastery's entrance, there is a restored water conduit that leans against the slope. The main entrance to the sanctuary is reached by a narrow staircase consisting of 62 steps. Next to the entrance gate, there are guard rooms, and from there, an internal courtyard can be accessed by a 76-step staircase leading further down to the main church with a 96-step staircase. This section is a place of worship, a holy spring believed to have sacred properties where water drips from the rock, and three to four chapels. The library and guest rooms are on the right side of the descending staircase. The lower part of the monastery, which consists of four floors, contains 72 monk cells, storage rooms, pantries, and cellars.
The Frescoes of Sumela
The worship section, built inside a natural cave, is among the oldest parts of the monastery and has architectural arrangements resembling a centrally planned church. The interior and exterior of the cave temple are entirely adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible, the Old Testament, and the lives of saints, without following a chronological order on all the inner and outer walls and the ceiling. Since the frescoes were not created during the same period, adhering to a chronological sequence was impossible. Right from the entrance door is a golden-gilded Trinity of Mary, Jesus, and God. Towards the bottom right, traces of a scene that was attempted to be removed and taken away by foreign collectors in the 1990s can be seen. The location, cut in a square shape, also reveals the extent of the looting damage inflicted on the monastery. The dark section behind the wall is presumed to be the diakonion, where sacred objects are kept, and it is also rumored to be where students receiving education in the monastery were punished. A chapel with a cradle-vaulted and windowed dome has been added to the eastern side of the cave temple.
Exterior Wall of the Cave Temple's Eastern Side
1 Creation of the World
2 Creation of Adam and Eve
3 Cain Killing His Brother Abel
14 Transfiguration of Jesus
18 Ascension of Jesus
22 Annunciation to Joachim and Anna
24 Dormition of Mary
Chapel South and North Side
27 Nativity of Mary
29 Annunciation to Mary
30 Birth of Jesus
31 Baptism of Jesus
38 Betrayal of Judas
39 Jesus before the High Council, Peter's Denial
40 Jesus before Pontius Pilate (Governor Judas who ordered the crucifixion of Jesus during the Tiberius period)
41 Torture of Jesus
42 Crowning of Thorns on Jesus
43 Crucifixion of Jesus
44 Descent from the Cross
45 Burial of Jesus
46 Descent of Jesus to the Underworld
Cave Temple North Rock Wall
47 Resurrection
48 Deesis; Intercession of Mary and John the Baptist to Jesus
Cave Temple Inner North Wall
53-54 Trinity of Mary, Jesus, and God, Bishops, and Christian Martyrs
56 Selection and Commissioning of Jesus' Disciples
Cave Temple Inner East Wall
59 Sacrifice of Abraham's Son
62 Resurrection (Anastasis)
63 Descent from the Cross and Burial of Jesus
64 Carrying the Cross
65 Crucifixion of Jesus
Cave Temple Ceiling
71 Pantocrator Jesus and the Disciples
Cave Temple South and West Walls
79 Meeting of Mary and Joseph
80 Birth of Jesus and Adoration of the Shepherds
81 Angel Guiding the Three Wise Men
The Frescoes of Sumela
The worship section, built inside a natural cave, is among the oldest parts of the monastery and has architectural arrangements resembling a centrally planned church. The interior and exterior of the cave temple are entirely adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible, the Old Testament, and the lives of saints, without following a chronological order on all the inner and outer walls and the ceiling. Since the frescoes were not created during the same period, adhering to a chronological sequence was impossible. Right from the entrance door is a golden-gilded Trinity of Mary, Jesus, and God. Towards the bottom right, traces of a scene that was attempted to be removed and taken away by foreign collectors in the 1990s can be seen. The location, cut in a square shape, also reveals the extent of the looting damage inflicted on the monastery. The dark section behind the wall is presumed to be the diakonion, where sacred objects are kept, and it is also rumored to be where students receiving education in the monastery were punished. A chapel with a cradle-vaulted and windowed dome has been added to the eastern side of the cave temple.
Exterior Wall of the Cave Temple's Eastern Side
1 Creation of the World
2 Creation of Adam and Eve
3 Cain Killing His Brother Abel
14 Transfiguration of Jesus
18 Ascension of Jesus
22 Annunciation to Joachim and Anna
24 Dormition of Mary
Chapel South and North Side
27 Nativity of Mary
29 Annunciation to Mary
30 Birth of Jesus
31 Baptism of Jesus
38 Betrayal of Judas
39 Jesus before the High Council, Peter's Denial
40 Jesus before Pontius Pilate (Governor Judas who ordered the crucifixion of Jesus during the Tiberius period)
41 Torture of Jesus
42 Crowning of Thorns on Jesus
43 Crucifixion of Jesus
44 Descent from the Cross
45 Burial of Jesus
46 Descent of Jesus to the Underworld
Cave Temple North Rock Wall
47 Resurrection
48 Deesis; Intercession of Mary and John the Baptist to Jesus
Cave Temple Inner North Wall
53-54 Trinity of Mary, Jesus, and God, Bishops, and Christian Martyrs
56 Selection and Commissioning of Jesus' Disciples
Cave Temple Inner East Wall
59 Sacrifice of Abraham's Son
62 Resurrection (Anastasis)
63 Descent from the Cross and Burial of Jesus
64 Carrying the Cross
65 Crucifixion of Jesus
Cave Temple Ceiling
71 Pantocrator Jesus and the Disciples
Cave Temple South and West Walls
79 Meeting of Mary and Joseph
80 Birth of Jesus and Adoration of the Shepherds
81 Angel Guiding the Three Wise Men